I Paid 17,735 MKD ($330) for Three Teas and a Bottle of Rose Oil in Skopje. Skopje’s Old Bazaar is genuinely one of the most atmospheric markets in the Balkans — Ottoman-era lanes, the smell of spices, vendors who seem happy just to chat. I loved it. Right up until I walked into Mimosa Natural…
A visit to Kosovo: the city, the country, and everything in between The NEWBORN monument stands in the middle of a pedestrian square in central Pristina, its oversized letters repainted every year since they first appeared on 17 February 2008 — the day Kosovo declared independence. The City Pristina — or Prishtinë in Albanian, Priština…
A travel guide to Sofia — free walking and food tours, cheap metro, queer nightlife, vegetarian food, and the social realities behind the beautiful facades. Sofia kept coming up as a stopover, a layover, a “well, it’s cheap” destination. I’d heard it described as rough around the edges, post-communist, still figuring itself out. Section 1…
A 2006 overland journey from Zurich to Beijing: Minsk, Moscow, Siberia and Lake Baikal, Mongolia and the Naadam festival, then Datong, Pingyao, Xi’an, Shanghai and the Great Wall. A travel diary with photos and videos.
